Machine for felling waistbands of trousers.



W. E. BAILEY.

MACHLNE FOR FBLLING WAISTBANDS OF TROUSERS.

APPLIOATION FILED DEC. 17, 190B.

Patented Feb. .17, 1914-.

2 SHEETS-BHEET 1.

M W F1 1 W. E. BAILEY.

MACHINE FOR FELLING WAISTBANDS 0P TROUSERS.

APPLIOATION FILED DEO.17, 1908.

1,087,268, Patented Feb. 17, 1914.

2 SHEETSBHEET 2.

I UNITED STATES PALIENT OFFICE.

WILLIAM E. BAILEY, F BEVERLY, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR T0 ARBETTER FELLING MACHINE COMPANY, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, A CORPORATION OF MAINE.

MACHINE FOR FELLING WAISTBANDS OF TROUSERS.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Feb. 1'7, 1914.

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, WILLIA): E. BAILEY,

a citizen of the United States, and a resident of Beverly, in the county of Essex and 5 State of )Iassachusetts, have invented an Improvement in Machines for Felling \Vaistbands of Trousers, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawing, is a specification, like letters on the drawing representing like parts. 7

This invention relates to a machine for bl indstitiching wherein the stitches enter and emerge on the same surface of the goods and the stitch-tormin mechanism is toeated entirely at one si( e of the goods.

The invention in many of its features is particularly adapted for use in the felling of the upper edges of trousers where the lining is felled to the main fabric on the wrong side after buttons and belt straps, either m; both, have been attached to the right side of the fabric at or near the upper edge.

The invention involves improvements in the feeding mechanism, in the bender mech anism for projecting the fabric into the path of the needles in the work-support and particularly in a movable section thereof Whereby irregularities in the goodsare controlled in their passage past the stitching point, in the means for guiding the edge of the fat ric, in the construction of the presscr-foot, and in other features which will more fully appcar from the description and drawings. and will be particularly pointed out in the claims;

The drawings illustrate the invention as cmbodicd in its preferred form, and in a ma hine suitable for telling the lining to the outer material of the upper edge of a pair of trousers whether either buttons or belt straps or both occur at intervals.

Figure l is a front elevation of the ma 5 chi or. F g. :2 is a side elevation of the fori'ard cud ol' the feeding instrumentality. Fig. 33 a l'ront elevation of the lower end of th l'ct-diug iustrunu-ntality. Fig. 1 is a from cl aatioo. partially in cross-section, of the lower portion of the prcsscr-l'oot. Fig.

is a top plan view of thc work-support and the lower. p0 ion ot' the prcsscr-l oot. Fig, (3 is a top plan view of the lower por-- tion of the feeding instrumentality. Fig. 7 is a side elevation of the parts shown in Fig. 6. Fig. 8 is a side elevation of the presser-foot detached. F ig. 9 is a crosssection through the work-support taken on the line m-.c, Fig. 5.

Certain features of the machine it is unnecessary to describe in detail because specifically considered they form no part of the present invention, and are similar in coustruction to the well-known Arbetter type of machine illustrated for example in patents to Arbetter No. 830.699. granted Sep tember 11, 1906, No. 937,273 granted Oct. 19, 1909.

In its general arrangement the machine comprises a bed-plate A and an overhang ing arm A only the forward portions of which are herein illustrated. The bed-plate A has mounted and vertically movable therein a carriage E, carrying the worksupport E. This carriage E is retained in vertical guideways by means of the faceplate E, attached to the bed-plate or lower portion of the machine by screws E The worksupport with its carriage is normally elevated by means of the spring E" and is depressed when required, as for placing the work in position by means of a manuallyoperated lever (not shown). The overhanging arm A supports and carries the entire stitch-forming mechanism. and the presserfoot. as in the case of the .\rbetter type of machine, and in the embodiment of the invention illustrated the overhanging arm carries the entire feeding mechanism. so that the stitch forming mechanism, the feeding mechanism, and the prcsser-toot are in this form located upon one and the same side of the work, or as herein illustrated above the work-support.

The stitch-forming mechanism itself is fully illustrated in the before-mentioned patents and comprises, as therein described, the curved needle a mounted in the needlecarrying arm I), carried in turn by the needle-carrying rock-shaft. B. journaled in the long transverse bearing B", carried by the vertical rock-shaft B", to which the rocking motion is imparted at the proper times. as set forth in said patents. to cause the nccdlc to move at one time parallel with. and at another time diagonal to the feed.

This movement of the needle enables one stitch to be taken into the base fabric close up to and parallel with the edge of the overlying fabric. and another stitch to be taken diagonally into the overlying fabric at its edge. The siitch-fornnng mechanism further comprises a suitable complemental mechanism, herein shown as a revolving hook a, with an incloscd bobbin case a con taining the usual bobbin. The revolving hook a is mounted in the holder A depending from the overhanging arm, and is arranged to revolve in a plane slightly oblique to the vertical and transversely of the paths of reciprocation of the needle.

The main driving shaft of the machine is indicated at A and from it. the stitch-form ing mechanism is driven in suitable manner, as set forth in the above-mentioned patents. The connections for rockin the needle-carrier and rock-shaft B are illustrated and comprise a disk a on the end of the driving shaft A, and a IOdB connecting a stud on the disk to a crank arm on the shaft B.

The Presser-foot D is adjustably connected by the set-screw D to the Presserfoot holder D which in turn is rigidly connected with the overhanging arm of the machine.

Owing to the peculiar character of the work for which the machine illustrated is particularly designed, the construction of the work-support, resser-foot, feeding mechanism, and/edge-gage is of particular importance. The invention in its broader aspects is not restricted to the particular construction of these parts illustrated and now to be described, but these constructions of themselves involve certain additional features of novelty by reason of which they are adapted to cooperate in handling the particular class of work, viz., the felling of the upper edge of trousers. In work of this character the commercial requirements are such that the lining must be felled to the inner folded, upper edge of the trousers after the buttons, and the belt straps (tivhcn used) have been fastened on the opposite side of the goods. The work thus prdsents buttons rotruding from the right side of the good and when they are used straps protruding no only from the right side of the goods but also projecting b yond the upper edge. At intervals also scams frequently occur, running transversely to the edge of the trousers. The occurrence of all these irregularities renders it an exceedingly diflicult proposition to fell on the lining on the opposite side of the folded edge of the trousers by machine and at the same time secure neat and regular work. This ork is accomplished by the machine herein illustrated.

The Work-support E is provided with a separate section E", pivoted at E in a bracket. E secured by screws E to the top-plate of the worksupport E. The pivotal axis is arranged transversely of the line of feed in a vertical plane extending through the position where the stitch is taken in the goods, or in other words about in line with the bender which acts to project the work into the path of the needle, The effect of thus pivoting a section of the work-support is to enable all irregularities, such as the extra thicknesses caused by the transverse seams or by the belt straps, to pass between the fixed resser-foot and the work-support without causing the separation of the presser-footand work-support when the points of normal thickness of the work are passing between at the stitching point. \Vhen such an unusual thickness en ters beneath the presscr-foot the movable section rocks downwardly at its forward end, thus maintaining the presserfoot and work-support in cooperation at the stitching point, and as the point of extra thick ness passes on it is properly handled itself at-the stitching point, and as it passes the stitching point causes the movable section of the work-su port to tilt in the opposite direction and a low it to pass out from be-' tween the presser-foot and work-support readily.

Th movable section E of the work-sup port is grooved longitudinally, as indicated at E to provide a. passageway for the buttons projecting from the right face of the fabric, and the entrance to this passageway is made flaring, as indicated at E", to prevent the buttons from catching as they come along. The movable section E is th s a trough-shaped device and is closed at its 1Q! top, except for the longitudinal opening to allow for the passage of the neck or fastening portion of the buttons, by plates E fastened in place by screws.

The mechanism for operating the bender is similar to that illustrated in the abovementioned patents. The bender bar G is mounted to slide vertically in bearings G formed on the plate E, andis given its upward movement from a crank arm G our ried by the shaft G. The buttons on this class of work usually project beyond the line along which the lining is felled to the inner folded edge of the oods, and hence a bender such as shown in tho above mentioned pato cuts is useless. The present invention pro-- vides a bender having a shank G" mounted in a socket G carried by the bracket E The shank of the bender is bentor oifsct at its upper end so that \vllilt the shank passes up outside of the path of the button the ef fective end (i of the bender is in the proper position beneath the path of the needle and over the button. The bender is normally held in a depressed or inactive position by the coiled spring G, surrounding the socket G and engaging a pin G projecting from the shank G. The bender bar G is provided with an offset (ii projecting beneath the shank G so that at the proper time upon the movement of the crank arm G the bender bar will be elevated into contact with the shank G and cause the effective end G of the bender to project the material into the path of the needle.

The presser-foot. is shaped to cooperate with the work-support and maintain an effective control of the goods at the stitching point. The usual opening or needle throat is provided for the operation of the needle and bender. The paths of the needle in makin" the straight and diagonal stitches are indicated in the dotted lines H in Fig. 5. The heel portion of the presser-foot is concaved, as indicated at 1), to present a thin edge near the throat and allow for the pas= sage of the needle thereover, and this edge is extended to form the fingers I)", I)", the finger l) being upwardly curved at its point. The presser-foot. is also cut away to orm an elongated opening I) to the right of the bender to provide for the positive feeding of the goods by the feeding dog at this point. The presser-foot. is cut away at its too to present. an edge I) which acts as a guide for the folded edge of the lining. The edge of the presser-foot is also grooved or cut away, as indicated at D", and provided with an upwardly curved projection D adjacent the throat, so that as the folded edge f the lining passes along it will be led up through the groove D" and lifted by the projection D",'tl1e upwardly curved end of the finger D allowing it to be thus lifted, so that the needle in its diagonal stroke may readily pass beneath the folded edge of the lining. The presser-foot isalso' slotted at D toallowfor the passage of the edge-gage to be described.

In order to guide the ed e of the main portion of the goods, or t at portion to which the lining, buttons and straps are secured, an edge-gage K is provided. This edge gage is secured to a vertically mojvable bar K mounted in, bearings K on the plate E. A bell-crank lever K, fulcrumed at K on the frame of the machine, is .slidingly connected at one end to the gage K and provided with a handle K at its opposite end,

so that the gage may be raised and lowered by the operator when desired. The mounting of the gage upon the frame of the machine enables ts raised position to be maintained irrespective of the up and down movement of the work-support, so that when the gage is raised to project into the presscr-foot it will maintain tlat position ni'itwithstanding the passage of any irregularitics over the work-support or any movement of the work-support. This gage is arthe overhanging arm. The lever and oven han ing arm are slotted so that the fulcrum pin l" may be moved up and down to adjust the throw of the feed dog. The upper end of the lever embraces the cams P and P carried by the driving shaft, one of the cams acting to give the longitudinal and the other the up and down movement to the feed dog, and by means of these cams any desired movement can be given to the feed dog.

The feed dog is shaped to cooperate with the presser-foot and work-support in prep erly feeding the goods past the stitching point, and to this end it is provided with a section P moving above the worlcsnpport at the left of the presser-foot, and also with a section I operating over the slot through which the button neck passes, and preferably extending well throughout the length -of this slot, and also with. a short section P operating at the right of the bender and provided with a lateral projection P which operates over the path of the bender. By thus constructing the presser-foot, the goods are firmly gripped and held and fed along so that there can be no shifting of the goods from the proper position.

Having described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is:

1. A blindstitch sewing maehinecompris ing stitch-forming mechanism and astationary resser-foot located above the work, feeding mechanism, a yieldingly-mounted wcrlesnpport located below the work, a sec tion of the worlvsupport. being pivoted transversely to the line of feed near the stitching point, the said section extending beneath the presser foot and on both sides of the stitching point, whereby the said section will rock on its pivot to allow of the passage of irregularities in the work and maintain the control of the goods between the presser-foot and the work-support at the stitching oint.

2. A blmdstitch sewing machine compris ing stitch forming mechanism and a stationary resser-foot coated above the work. a yiel mgly-mounted work-support located elow the work, a section of the Qi'lifi'lllllport being pivoted transversely to the lioehf feed near the stitching point, the said sect on extending wncath the presser foot and on ing mechanism located above the work support, and means for operating it to feed' the work over said work-support.

'4. A blindstitch sewing machine comprising stitch-forming mechanism and a station ary pressenfoot located above the work, a yieldingly-mounted worksupport located below the Work, a section of the said worksupport beneath thepresser-foot presenting a button passageway with a narrow opening extending in the line offeed and being pivoted transversely to the line of feed near the stitching poiht, feeding mechanism located above the work-support, and means for operating it to feed the work over said pivoted section.

5. A blindstitch sewing machine compris ing stitch-forming mechanism and a stationary resser-foot located above the work, a

iel ingly mounted work support located slow the work, said work-support presenting a button passageway withing narrow opening extending in the line of feed, feeding mechafhism including a feed dog located above-the work-support, said feed dog presenting feeding projections above and'at each side of said opeping, and means for operating said feeding mechanism to cause the feed dog'to feed the work over said work-support.

6; A blindstitchsewing machine comprising stitch-forming mechanism and a station-.

ary pressenfo'ot located above the work, a yieldingly mounted work support located below the work, a section of the saidworksupport beneath the .presser-foot presenting a button assageway with a narrow opening exten 'ng in the line of feed and being pivoted transversely to the line of feed near the stitching point, feeding mechanism includ ng 'a feed dog located above the worksupport; said. feed dog presenting feeding projections a ove and at each side of said opening, and means for operating sai feeding mechanism to cause the feed dog t feed the work over said pivoted section.

7. A blindstitch sewing machine comprising stitch-formin mechanism and a stationary presser-foot ocated above'the work, a yieldingly mounted work support located below the work, said work-support present- (passageway with a, narrowv ing a button opening exten ng in the line of fee'd',- a bender mounted to reciprocate in said worksupport and offset at its point to place the l path of movement of said point above said passageway, and means for operating said bender to cause it to project the material into the path of the needle at the required times.

8. A hlindstitch sewing machine compris ing stitch-forming mechanism and a stationary presser-foot located above the work, a yicldingly mounted Work support located below the work, said worksupport presenting a button passageway with a narrow opening extending in the line of feed, a bender mounted to reciprocate in said worksupport and offset at its point to place the path of movement of. said point above said passageway, a spring for depressing said bender, means for elevating said bender at predetermined times to project the work into the path of the needle.

9. A blindstitch sewing machine comprising stitch-forming mechanism and a station ary presser-foot located above the work, a yieldin ly mounted wqrkesupport located below t e work, a section of the said worksupport beneath the presser-foot presenting ablltton passageway with a narrow opening extending in the line of feed and being pivoted transversely to the line of feed near the stitching point, a bender mounted on said yielding worksupport to reciprocate through said pivoted section and offset at its point tovplace the. path of movement of said point above said assageway, and means located and operative independently of said yielding. work-support for operatin said bender to ca so it to project the'wofi: into the path of t ie'needle at the required times.

10'. A blindstitch sewing machine comprising stitch-fmming mechanism and .a stationary presser-foot located above the work, a yicldingly-mounted' work-support located below the work, said work-support presenting a button passageway provided with a narrow opening extending in the line-of feed, a bender carried by and mounted to reciprocate in said yielding Work-support and offset at its point to place the path of movement of said point above said passageway, means carried by and mounted in a fixed portion of the said machine independently of said yielding work-support for operating said bender to cause it to project the work into the path of .the needle at the required times.

11. A blindstitch sewing machine comprising stitch forming mechanism and a stationary resser-foot located above the work, a yieldingly-mounted work-support located below the work and provided with a bende'i; opening, a bender, means for reciprocating the bender through said opening, feeding mechanism including a feed dog locate above the work-support, said feed dog presenting feeding pro ections to act upon the work at each side 0 the bender opening.

12. A blindstitcn sewing machine comprising stitch forming mechanism and a stationary presser-foot located above the work, a yieldingly-mounted work-support located below the work and provided with a bender opening, a bender, means for reciprocating the bender through said opening, feeding mechanism including a feed dog located above the work-support, said feed dog presenting feeding projections to act upon the work at each slde of the bender opening and having a narrow transverse projection to move over the bender opening.

13. A blindstitch sewing machine comprising stitch-forming mechanism and a stationary presser-foot located above the'work, a yieldingly-mount ed work-support located below the work, a movable edge gage mounted in a fixed portion of the machine and rojecting through an opening in ,the yiel ing work-support and engaging the presser-foot, and means for elevating and depressing the edge gage whereby when the edge gage is elevated the work-support may be moved independently thereof. i

14. A blindstitch sewing machine comprising stitch-forming mechanism and a stationary presser-foot located above the work, a yieldingly-mouuted work-support located below the work, a section of the work-sup- .port beneath the presser-rfoot being pivoted transversely to the line of feed near the stitching point, a movable edge gage mounted in a fixed portion of the machine and projecting through the pivoted section of the worksupport into engagement with the presser-foot, and means for elevating and depressing said edge gage independently of the movementof the work-support and the movement of its pivoted section.

15. A blindstitch sewing machine comprising stitch forming mechanism located above the work, a work support located below the work, said work support presenting a button passageway provided with a narrow opening extending in the line of feed, feeding mechanism located above the work support and means for operating it to feed the work over said work support.

16. A blind stitch sewing machine comprising stitch forming mechanism located above the work, a work support located below the work, said work support presenting a button passageway with a narrow opening extending in the line of feed, fcedin mechanism including a feed dog located a bove the work support, said feed dog presenting feeding projections above and at each side 'of said opening, and means for operatin said feeding mechanism to cause the feed og to feed the work over said ork support.

17. A blind stitch sewing, machine 65mprising stitch forming mechanism located above the work, a work support Located below the work, said work suppoit presenting a button passageway with a narrow opening extending in the line of feed, a bender mounted to reciprocate in said work support, said bender having an offset to prevent interference with a but on passing through said passageway during the reciprocation of the bender, and means for operating said bender to cause it to project the work into the path of the needle at the required times.

18.. A blind stitch sewing machine comprising stitch forming mechanism located above the work a work support located below the work, a section of the said work support beneatlrthe presser foot presenting a button passageway with a narrow opening extending in the line of feed, said section being pivoted transversely to the hue of feed near the stitching point.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification, in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

. WILLIAM E. BAILEY.

\Vitnesses:

Marxian PARrELow, FREDERICK S. GREENLEAF. 

